Sir Dexter.

No. Dexter isn't in Paris with us. And no, this post isn't about Paris. But I miss my cat, and I've been sick for the past week and either couped up in our tiny apartment or in the dark room....so....a post on the cat it is.

And yes, since you asked, I do in fact work like this.
And yes, he really does sleep through my typing and designing. I've tried breaking him of this habit, but after putting him on the floor and him jumping back up on the desk a dozen times or so, I just let him be.

Because really, I do love how needy he is.


My friend Katherine is graciously watching over the needy cat while we're gone. She's fantastic and adores him, but it's been quite hard for me. Normally we'd leave him with our friends Noa and Julie, but since they live in Japan now....(we miss you guys!)


Nike.

I grew up in a tiny little town on the edge of, well...the desert, in southern Idaho. We had one art class, that we got to take our junior year. We drew still life, threw pots, and even dabbled in a bit of screenprinting. We did not, however, study any sort of art history.

My freshman year of college at Boise State, I was sitting in a large auditorium that held more students than there were people in my entire town. I remember being somewhat bored as I watched the professor scroll through image after image of works that I would need to know the date, artist, location, importance of, etc. It was overwhelming and I had no idea how to even process, let alone memorize, all of what we were seeing.

Until she showed us the Nike of Samothrace.

Have you ever had that moment? When you see something and it leaves an indelible mark on your life? This was my moment. I remember sitting up straighter in my seat, and actually looking forward to when I could crack open my giant art history book to find out more about her. And I knew that one day I needed to see her in real life.*

So on Monday, we decided to venture over to the Louvre, which is, of course, massive. I didn't care about the Mona Lisa (even though, yes, we did stand in line to see her behind glass), the Venus de Milo, Napolean's apartments, all I cared about was finding the Nike.

You have to take a number of escalators and turns before coming to where she's standing. And it's not like walking up to the Venus de Milo (who is currently standing on her own in the middle of a room). You walk down a long corridor and have to walk up about 40 steps to where she stands at the top.

I started to get nervous (?) when we walked around the corner. I could see the stairs, and the bow of the ship she stands on. As we walked closer, and she came into full view...I actually cried.** I feel quite foolish about it, but it's something I can't really explain. She is beautiful and perfect, and we spent over an hour taking photos and (me) sketching.

She did not disappoint.

*oddly enough, there is a replica of her in the Boise Capitol. Apparently a gift from Paris to Boise...

**I had a very similar connection with
Michelangelo's David. Unfortunately, when we were in Florence and went to see him, they were cleaning him. He was obstructed by fences, and nobody else in our group wanted to spend much time with him. Never the less, the set up in the museum was just as striking as the Louvre's with the Nike.

End of Week One.

My first week in Paris ended as it should have began: with my husband.

I picked him up from the airport on Friday morning, and in an attempt to keep him awake until at least 9.00 that evening (he had, after all, taken two red-eye flights in a row. One from Vegas to Providence, then the same day from Providence to Paris), we decided to head to the Arch of Triumph and the Champs-Elysees.

We spent much of the late afternoon wandering around the arch, admiring its handiwork, climbing its absolutely dizzying staircase to the top, and admiring the incredible panaromic views of the city. It was, in short, breathtaking.

We decended onto the Champs-Elysees, where I must admit we were not very interested. Neither of us like to shop, and even the twice yearly 40-60% off sales (they just started) wasn't enough to lure us in. But the walk down it towards the Louvre is beautiful. After walking the park and admiring the splendor that is the former Royal Palace (but don't even get me started on the hideous glass pyramid), it was only 6.30 pm.

We went back to our neighborhood (the Bastille), and found a restaurant that was open but not yet serving dinner (most places don't start until after 7.00). Herman had to walk outside multiple times before our food arrived, just to stay awake, then somehow managed to eat his meal on autopilot. It was painful for me to watch.

We made it home where he crashed for the next 15 (not even joking) hours.

Unfortunately, I spent that night awake with a severe sore throat, and have spent a very beautiful weekend holed up in our studio apartment trying to sleep off a nasty cold. But our photography professor is giving us tomorrow off for MLK day, so hopefully I'll feel strong enough to go exploring.


Je m'appelle Claude*

And now we're in Paris...or, I'm in Paris. I arrived one week ago today (hola Paris!). Herman is arriving early tomorrow morning since he had some work things to take care of before he could come. But don't worry about me - I've had some company. Herman's cousin Thomas met me here in order to help me settle in a bit (yeah...he speaks fluent French and knows the city better than me), then my mother in law decided to come along too. I have been more than taken care of.

(Do you like how I pretend that nothing has happened? Don't hold your breath though because I'm not sure this whole blogging thing is going to stick. I am mainly doing this for you Sumi. Because you are my friend. And you are very pregnant. And I'll do anything to keep you happy right now. And because I'm sure you're the only one who's reading anyway...)

Anyway....PARIS! We found a wonderful studio flat (yay for craigslist!) right down the road from the Bastille. It's a bit tight, say for 3 people to be sharing, but it's absolutely perfect for me and Herman. It's right over an used bookstore (how perfect is that?), and overlooks Rue de la Roquette. I think I'm blending in quite well with the locals as I've been asked 3 different times for directions - from French people! Then, of course, I open my mouth and it all goes down hill from there. But I can walk the street with a baguette in my hand with the best of them.

It's only been a week, but I've managed to explore the Montmarte area (home to Van Gogh, Renior, The Moulin Rouge,
Sacré-Cœur, and many a sex museum...oh, and where they filmed one of my favorite movies), Champs-Elysees, St. Germain de Pres, the Bastille area, and tried to find Jim Morrison's grave (but came upon Chopin's instead). Oh, and did I mention that I've spent a number of hours in the darkroom already?

I've taken many photos in this past week, but they've all been with my film camera or my polaroid. Below are the few that I've taken with my tiny digi cam, when I've remembered to bring it.




Thomas and my mother in law on the Champs-Elysees. In front of the Arch of Triumph. Thomas and I in front of...something (still not sure what). Great Parisian chocolate and some of the most perfect package design I've seen.

*Just a bit of Friends humor for you.